In Estremoz, we appear to have found the ideal Alentejo, where the monumentality of the historic heritage crowns, from atop the hill, the endless croplands and vineyards below. In the distance, like a film set, the jagged profile of the Serra de Ossa uplands cuts into the horizon; and, with every step, we are surprised by new landscapes that seem almost to have been cut geometrically into the farmland. From underground, we get the white marble that is the hallmark of churches, chapels, palaces and crazy-paving.